Paint correction

We remove defects, not clearcoat.

Every correction begins with a paint depth gauge and ends with a measurement of what was taken. Between those numbers: staged machine work under inspection light, by hand where machines can't safely go.

Interactive

Toggle the surface.

The difference between swirled and corrected paint is measurable in gloss units — and unmistakable at a fuel station.

Surface state

A live build would drive the actual 3D material's roughness map here. The physics is real either way: correction removes defects; ceramic changes how water behaves on what remains.

The process

Four stages, zero guesswork.

Depth mapping

Every panel is ultrasonically measured and recorded. Panels below safe thickness are flagged — and left alone if correction would risk them.

Test spot

One small area is corrected first. The combination that works with least cut is the one used across the car — never the other way round.

Staged machine work

Compound, polish, jewelling. Each stage under a different inspection light, because different defects hide from different angles.

Panel wipe & verify

Oils stripped so the finish is judged raw, then gloss-metered and photographed at delivery light for the record.

Honest limits

What correction can't fix.

Stone chips through the colour layer, deep scratches that catch a fingernail, and repainted panels with mystery histories — these need more than polish, and we'll tell you which category you're in before quoting. A typical full correction on a passenger car starts from NZ$1,450; severe defect removal is quoted after inspection.